It was a bit odd at first when doing the research, as a lot of online reviews just call it 'P50' or 'BR 50'.
Anyway, a couple of things to take note of: (1) The original popular formula from 1970 has been discontinued, (2) Be careful when picking the right version. There are a few (e.g. P50, PIGM400, P50V, P50W), all meant for different skin concerns.
In general, I think experiences are mixed but there are plenty of people on Reddit who absolutely love it.
Happy Hunting! -- Thomas
The original cult formula had phenol in it, but it was banned in the EU and in the US (more recently - 2024). The current formulation does not have it.
Biologique Recherche announced it would phase out P50 1970 and P50V 1970 globally, citing 're-alignment regarding worldwide existing and evolving practices and regulations.'
The cult-classic toner is being discontinued in the U.S.
Coverage of the US discontinuation and expert reactions. The FDA moved to classify phenol as no longer approved for use in cosmetic skincare products.
Full INCI: Water, Glycerin, Phenol, Niacinamide, Vinegar (Acetum), Ethoxydiglycol, Magnesium Chloride, Lactic Acid, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Sulfur.
Phenol is listed third in the 1970 formulation, suggesting a meaningful concentration.
r/SkincareAddictionLux | May 2023
Poster's details as of 2026-04-03: Karma: 1, Contributions: 15, Reddit age: 3y
The 1970s will kill bacteria when dealing with acne, pustules, cystic acne, and acne rosacea. You can use to spot treat only. Never use this one every day for months or years straight. This has the LOWEST % of AHAs and what you're feeling is the phenol. 1970 is higher in killing bacteria but not in exfoliation.
P50 PIGM 400 has a higher exfoliation than the 1970s.
It
Founded in the late 1970s by Yvan Allouche (biologist) and Josette Allouche (physiotherapist). P50 was originally a professional-only clinic product.
There are at least 4 main ones (P50, PIGM 400, P50V and P50W), and possibly more. I normally don't like to include magazine articles, but I had to for guidance on which one was meant for which skin concern. Canada has it's own called 'P50T'. I also recommend clicking into each product page if you are not sure. I've included the 'P50' category page for reference.
It's the French exfoliating toner with a cult following—and it comes in four distinct formulas. Which one is right for you?
For masochists: Lotion P50/P50 1970 P50 1970 is the toughest, roughest, OG version. Stinging and redness is par for the course—but actually, it's good for any skin type. It’s got all the good stuff you know and love about P50, including a hearty blend of AHAs and BHAs to give you that glow. But what makes P50 particularly special is the mix of sorrell, myrrh extract, myrtle, and onion. (That's where the smell comes from.) The regular P50 (scratch the 1970) excludes phenol, which is also found in mouthwash. It’s been banned in Europe, but it's all part of the product that Danuta describes as the "purist's choice."
For dry skin: Lotion P50V/P50V 1970 P50V was created for those with skin not too sensitive, not too strong, and perhaps on the normal to dry side. It still does the job, but with the addition of plankton and brewer’s yeast, it's slightly more conditioning than regular P50.
For super sensitive skin: Lotion P50W/P50W 1970 Or: For when you want effective exfoliation, but just looking at the word "glycolic" flares your skin up. P50W is the best bet—the formula balances lactic and salicylic acid with glycerin and articum lappa root to make it effacaious and gentle. How many products can do both?
For hyperpigmentation: Lotion P50 PIGM 400 The newest member of the P50 line, which contains no phenol at all, was made specifically for people dealing with hyperpigmentation. This version helps control the pigmentation process, stimulating exfoliation and helps brighten dull skin with wasabi extract, palmaria palmata extract, and whatever "fruits titrated in flavonoids" are. Dr. Phillippe Allouche (he helped develop the line) expressed the risk of our skin becoming dull due to external stressors—sun, stress, city air, etc. Absolutely worth checking out if skin tone is your #1 concern, but not as strong as regular P50. But then again, few things are.
r/SkincareAddictionLux | 7 upvotes | February 2025
Poster's details as of 2026-04-03: Karma: 11, Contributions: 20, Reddit age: 2y
I started lotion my BR journey August 24. My issues were hyperpigmentation, texture and acne. I'm 31 with oily skin.
Started p50w August 24 - This helped decrease the texture and I noticed my makeup starting to look better. Still got breakouts but hardly any on forehead. Forehead started to look "glassy"
Started p50v November 24 - Face looked and felt a bit firmer, less texture, still got breakouts same as p50w. Forehead looking glossy and shiny.
Started p50 end of Jan 25 - wow! This is when I really noticed a change in the acne. Less breakouts. Any breakouts would disappear quickly, less hyperpigmentation, about 20% texture left now - mainly on my cheeks, face looks like it's got more of a glow now.
Should you try Biologique Recherche Lotion P50? All about this cult-favourite exfoliating toner, including the different types, ingredients and skin benefits.
Lotion P50T is a new version that was specifically created for countries, such as Canada, that require products to have a certain minimum pH level. (So this one is not sold in the US.) It has a pH of 3.5-4.0. We’re not told the concentration of AHAs, but we can assume that it’s 10% or lower. I was told by the brand that this is the mildest formula of all.
There are a lot of examples of P50 causing purging, so be aware if you get it. Also, make sure you know the difference between 'purging' and a 'breakout'. I think LabMuffin's guidance is probably the most helpful one I found Also, just avoid it if you have Rosacea. And if y
r/SkincareAddiction | 14 upvotes | July 2021
Poster's details as of 2026-04-03: Karma: 446, Contributions: 188, Reddit age: 5y
I am 32 year old female with combination skin and occasional mild breakouts. I started using biologique recherche p50 lotion April 13, which is coming up on 3 months ago. When I bought it the sales person said 'you may purge a little' and omg I was not prepared. I have been on tretinoin .05 for over a year and never purged on that. Immediately after the first time I used it all 3 or 4 under the skin pimples I had in my chin turned white! Since then I have continued to have by far the worst breakout I've ever had.
r/SkincareAddiction | same thread
Poster's details as of 2026-04-03: Karma: 444, Contributions: 166, Reddit age: 7y
i don't want to burst your bubble, but just wanted to share my experience - I used it for 3.5 months and yes although my skin was smoother and my pores shrank in some areas, I was also getting tons of acne on places I'd never gotten before - my chin, hormonal areas near the chin and jawline, cheeks, temples - and these were painful and cystic and deep. This left me with intense PIE. I stopped P50 and my skin has slowly started to clear.
Have you ever tried a new skincare product, only to discover that it makes your skin flare up with pimples? This could be your skin purging, or it could be your skin reacting to the product and having…
...Purging should only last for about a month, since that’s the length of time it takes for your upper skin layers (epidermis) to completely renew itself.
If your skin isn’t getting better after around 6-8 weeks with the new product, it’s a good sign that it’s a breakout, and you should ditch the product.
The statistics are surprising; they show that 50% of adult women will suffer from acne or rosacea. Here are our ways to reduce rosacea symptoms.
Hi Jules. Thanks so much for your questions. This would definitely depend on the severity of the rosacea. We normally advise avoiding all Lotion P50’s as rosacea skin is very sensitive to the acids. If you would still like to use the Lotion P50, we would suggest Lotion P50W be applied to a damp cotton pad and then applied to the face, making sure to avoid the areas where the skin is showing signs of rosacea.
Kind regards, The BR UK Team.
This is the brand's own professional UK channel. If you have rosacea, the brand itself is telling you to avoid it.
Reddit Post | r/SkincareAddictionLux | Upvotes: 175 | Comments: 97
Poster's details as of 2026-04-03: Karma: 256, Contributions: 158, Reddit age: 3y
Prior to using BR I have had normal skin type with dark circles and pores on the nose being my biggest concern. Nowadays I have sensitive skin with minor rosacea and dermatitis around my nasolabial folds.
Everyone's experience is different but after numerous talks with different dermatologists we came to the conclusion that certain products from BR and applying multiple products in a row (as advised by the spa where I purchased the products) has contributed to my skin being reactive.
Lotion P50W: 2/10 — First I liked the idea of it but this lotion was the one that contributed the most to my damaged barrier.
Reddit Post | r/SkincareAddiction | Upvotes: 2
Poster's details as of 2026-04-03: Karma: 338, Contributions: 254, Reddit age: 3y
Biologique Recherche ruined my skin barrier — I have very dry skin and used the P50v and P50w, I can't believe they tell people to use it morning and night, everyday! Acids are not supposed to be used everyday, that is crazy. All estheticians who sell this line say to use it morning and night, that's terrible advice. This should only be used 2 to three times per week at most.
A good number of people on Reddit love the product, that's for sure.
r/30PlusSkinCare | 70 upvotes | December 2021
Poster's details as of 2026-04-03: Karma: 28,690, Contributions: 5,699, Reddit age: 7y
I've used all of the formulations except for the Pigm400 for the last 3-4 years. Yes, it is the best everyday chemical exfoliator I ever had and I had a lot of them) way better than Dennis Gross, way better than Ren Glow, way better than M61 or TO. I pretty much just rebuy it without even thinking.
r/30PlusSkinCare | same thread
Poster's details as of 2026-04-03: Karma: 52,926, Contributions: 2,556, Reddit age: 11y
Yep, I have used it for at least 10 years now and I love it. I'm 44 and still get occasional breakouts and the P50 helps prevent almost all of them. Plus, I have the type of skin that just doesn't shed enough on its own—it always needs some help with exfoliation.
Reddit Post | Early 2024 | r/SkincareAddictionLux | Upvotes: 42 | Comments: 47
Poster's details as of 2026-04-03:
❤️ I’ve seen several people mention P50 in comments about their routines but I have no idea what it actually is or does. (Though I’m sure I probably need it in my life. Lol)...
[Multiple comments below raving positively about it]
Reddit Comment | Early 2025 | r/SkincareAddictionLux | Upvotes: 7
Poster's details as of 2026-04-03: Karma: 119,031, Contributions: 5,308, Reddit age: 7y
yes, I use P50 PIGM 400 once or twice a day depending on how my skin feels. P50 PIGM 400 is actually the gentlest of the P50s.
it’s working really well for me. I do the sandwich method (moisturizer-retinol-moisturizer) for my retinol and I haven’t experienced any irritation. the regular P50 is a bit too strong for daily use with retinol for me, but I just started using retinol again 3 months ago so maybe my skin will work back up to it in time.
